
Christina Thompson’s Sea People is a feast of wonders. To me, the most delightful chapter of this bouquet of miracles, is the chapter on Polynesian navigation; not by map and compass, but by stars and sun, color of clouds and sea, shape of clouds, flight of birds, smell of the air. And… the swell.
Which is a very slow, low amplitude, barely detectable, long wave in the ocean; the way the whole body of the ocean rises and falls by very little indeed but over its whole body; on the surface of which dance, and sometimes rage, the waves which we readily see and hear, and which the surfers surf. The Pacific swell, apparently, has a certain, constant direction and to detect it, the Polynesian navigator lies flat at the bottom of his craft. Perhaps he is only kidding the Pakeha (whites) when he says that the best way to detect it, is to feel it in one’s testicles, which act as nature’s most sensitive pendulum.
As I read it, I remembered that I have seen the swell. Many years ago, I climbed a high mountain in Eastern Taiwan and looked out west, onto the ocean; I was so high up, perhaps 1500m, or 2000, that I could see the curvature of earth at the horison; and there I saw the swell, the way the whole ocean almost imperceptibly rose and fell before me, not with the small waves on its surface, which, from this height registered only as small diacritical marks of foam, but, as it were, with its whole body. I more sensed it than saw it, it was so imperceptible; and not while looking at the ocean but while looking above it, at the sky just above the horizon; as if out of the corner of my eye, with my peripheral vision.
I remember how shaken I was by what I have thus detected. I have seen something tremendous, gigantic, cosmic, yet silent, and barely detectable, like a giant carnivore hiding in the dark.
Christina Thompson, Sea People: The Puzzle of Polynesia








