
“The Great Dismal Swamp, south of Virginia, further discouraged potential settlers. It measured twenty-two hundred square miles, constituting a barricade to easy passage for anyone traveling by horse or on foot from Virginia to Carolina. Travelers suffered through a wretched and dreadfully slow, damp, and dreary journey. Even after nearly fifty years of European settlement, the routes through the swamp were not clear. Two of Virginia’s leading gentlemen slogged their way around the area in 1711, trying to establish the border between the two colonies. Their journal gives us a taste of the long and miserable trek through the wet-lands: “In this 6 mile we Crosst several miring branches in which we were all terribly bedaubed . . . Having almost spent the day in this toilsome tho short Journey.” Three days later, they “were well soused in a myery meadow by the way of which we crossed severall.” At certain points they resorted to canoe travel, disembarking two miles from their intended destination and taking a long detour, “there being no firm land nearer.” Another two days into their trip, they recorded that they had “mist our way being wrong directed, and rid 11 mile almost to a myery swamp, almost impassible.” Finding no one available to help them, the two wandering planters, one already suffering from a fever, led their horses “3 mile through a terrible myery Pocoson to a verry great marsh to the River side.” Finally arriving at their lodgings for that night, they reported, “to comfort us we soon found that this little house which was well filled was full of the Itch.” Unaccustomed to such hardships, the gentlemen surrendered their plans, “there being no passage through the Dismall.”
Their admission of defeat is certainly understandable. Sprawling bald cypress and tupelo gum forests grew in standing water and saturated soils. The giant bald cypress trees measured more than 5 feet in diameter and 120 feet high. Mosquitoes and other biting flies loved the stagnant water and rotting vegetation, but worse awaited the sojourner. Lurking in the dark habitat, poisonous species of cottonmouth moccasins, copperheads, and canebrake rattlesnakes threatened all travelers. Bobcats preyed on human interlopers, and howling wolves terrified the uninitiated. The stench overpowered the senses.
The Dismal Swamp comprised a mixed set of terrains, most of them difficult to navigate. Pocosins, or bays, housed evergreen shrub bogs. These waterlogged soils, capable of sustaining only low-growing shrubs, lay relatively open. However, plant life included a variety of briers and dense stands of cane, all exceedingly difficult to penetrate. Somewhat drier soils in the swamp gave birth to large Atlantic white cedar forests, yet even these soils remained wet enough to impede travel. One of the few welcome geographic features for the traveler in the swamp was the hammock. Slightly elevated landforms that contained several species of oak as well as beech and tulip poplar, hammocks were navigable even on horseback. But these small natural features were scattered only randomly throughout the swamp. While travel on foot or horseback was exceedingly difficult, sustained travel on water proved almost impossible: although the vast majority of the swamp stayed saturated year-round, almost no waterways were navigable.”
And somewhere among all this dwelled at some point the maroons, or runaway slaves. Some maroons were born to those who escaped slavery and lived in the swamp for their entire lives despite the hardships of swamp life: dense underbrush, insects, venomous snakes, and bears. The difficult conditions also made the swamp an ideal hiding place, not just for the formerly enslaved but also for free blacks, slaves who worked on the swamp’s canals, Native Americans, and outcast whites such as criminals. Maroons are known to have often interacted with slaves and poor whites to obtain work, food, clothes, and money. Some maroons plundered nearby farms and plantations, stole from anchored boats, and robbed travelers on nearby roads
Noeleen McIlvenna, A Very Mutinous People: The Struggle for North Carolina, 1660-1713








